Cozumel: Exploring the Mainland

With all the activities available on Cozumel, most people never even make it over to the mainland--especially if they're only staying on the island for one week. But if you've got the time and the inclination, Cozumel makes a great home-base for a number of interesting mainland explorations. Below you'll find a sampling of suggestions for 1/2 day, full-day and over night trips you may want to consider on your next trip. Also check the Mainland Trips section of our Travel Forum to read what other travelers recommend.

Half-Day in Playa del Carmen

This fast-growing beach town located 12 miles across the Yucatan Channel from Cozumel has a lot to offer day-trippers in terms of shopping, restaurants and people-watching. And there are some great white sand beaches within very easy walking distance of the ferry pier.

One of the best things about Playa is that a long waterfront section of downtown is blocked off to vehicular traffic. This means you can hop off the ferry and start strolling. You'll pass sidewalk cafes, restaurants and shop after shop after shop.For some of the best talevera glazed pottery, check out Selva y Mar on 5th Avenue between Calle 4 and 6. And if amber or exquisite fire opals interest you, stop in at the nearby Amber Musuem.

Want the best deals on native handicrafts and the opportunity to practice your bargaining skills? Try the market stalls at the far south end of Fifth Avenue and straight up from where the ferry docks.

When you're shopped out, stop for a bakery snack and coffee at Sabors (5th Avenue and Calle 4) or a big, filling seafood lunch Yucatecan style at Las Brisas (Calle 4 between 5th and 10th Avenue.) Or just camp out at any of the sidewalk bars or cafes that line Fifth Avenue and settle in for some serious people-watching. Playa is popular with European tourists--particularly Italians and French and the atmosphere is decidedly laid-back continental with a Mexican zing.

Feel like taking a swim?Just sashay north a few blocks down pedestrian-only 5th Avenue, turn right on 8th Street and you'll run right into the southern end of the town's prettiest stretch of white sand beach. After your swim, stop at a beach front bar like the Blue Parrot and sip a cervasa or marguerita from the shade of a palapa while you admire the waves.

Full-Day Trips

Xcaret--a giant Mayan-themed amusement park where many well-heeled Cozumelenos take their kids (and selves) for special treats. Sure it's big and commercial. But it's also very clean and attractive and with plenty to do and see from watching an authentically recreated Mayan ballgame to simply basking beside one of the gorgeous lagoons with an occasional snorkeling dip. Some folks say the afternoon is the best time to go here--when everyone else is all pooped out. $40/person for the day, extra for some things like swimming with the dolphins.

We advise taking the ferry over around noon ($8), taxi to Xcaret, around ($10 for four of you each way.) Stay into the evening when it's very pretty with all the torches lighting the walkways and dramatic folkloric dance presentations in the outdoor amphitheatre. Not a good idea to be driving your own rental car at night on the mainland but with a taxi doing the driving, no problemo. So--$15/person for the ferry, $20 total RT for the taxi and $40/person for park entrance.

"Ruining" Yourself

Chitzen-Itza--At around $180/person (and be prepared to "hang onto your seatbelts. It's going to be a bumpy ride.") you can fly to Chitzen-Itz from Cozumel and do a whirlwind, one-day tour of this grand-daddy of Yucatecan Mayan ruins. It's a full-day affair, however. Our personal recommendation would be not to do it unless you're a Mayan history hound and just Gotta Have it. On the other hand, if you have the luxury of two weeks or more to spend on the island you may want to consider taking two or three days for your exploration and either renting a car in Playa del Carmen or taking the marvelously modern, comfortable and cheap first class bus. Toss in a night or two in the wonderful colonial city of Merida while you're about it!

But you don't have to fly to Chitzen-Itza to take in some great ruins. There are two fascinating ones fairly close by: Tulum and Coba. Tulum, a 40 minute drive down a straight, modern 4-lane road--is quite small compared to Chitzen-Itza and Coba but being situated as it is on a craggy cliff overlooking the Yucatan Channel and with a beautiful little beach right down below, it wins the Picturesque Award.

If you decide to rent a car and explore the mainland for the day, a trip south to Tulum in the early morning before the tour buses start to arrive from Cancun can be fun. Then eat lunch at one of the charming little places in Tulum or go for a swim on the beach down below the ruins.

Since the ruins of Coba are only 30 miles inland from Tulum, it is possible to do both in one day. But get an early start. Because exploring the enormous and impressive Late Classic ruins of Coba is an all-day affair in itself.

If you want to do Coba first class in a van with a guide, lunch, drinks, etc. it will run you around $65 plus per person for the day. Or if you don't like guided tours and want to do your own driving, rent a car in Playa and make the 2-hour drive from Playa to Coba yourself. The coast road is wide, new and a piece of cake to cruise along. The 30 mile inland

road from Tulum to Coba is also in good condition. (Although watch out for speed bumps!) If you choose Coba for your mainland expedition, be aware that this is one of the least reconstructed ruins with a whole lot of jungle creeping in all around. But some people especially dig this. (See Poster Panchita's raves about Coba in the Travel Forum Archives under Mayan Ruins).